Monday, November 9, 2009

88 Essential Asian Experiences

Why 88? It’s a Chinese lucky number, of course! And if you get to sample even a handful of these great pan-Asian delights, you’ll be most fortunate indeed. The editors and writers of Travel + Leisure Australia + New Zealand teamed up with their colleagues at T+L South-East Asia to bring you this list, especially for our annual Asia issue.


1. Take bliss to a new level at Amanpuri, in Phuket, the first Amanresorts property and still our favourite getaway.

2. Want a taste of the “new” Singapore? Then book into the New Majestic, where mid-century finds, provocative art and individually designed rooms give it the cutting edge.

3. Copper-plated bathtubs and four-poster beds make The Eugenia in Bangkok the perfect blend of boutique and faux-colonial.

4. Discover your inner wellness down on The Farm. Scrubs, rubs, internal flushing (ahem) … this holistic resort in the Philippines is Asia’s original get-fit camp.

5. Take the helicopter from the rooftop of The Peninsula for a “flight-seeing” trip, the only service of its kind in Hong Kong.

6. Sleep almost literally on cloud nine at the park hyatt shanghai, the tallest hotel in the world.

7. Retreat to the Six Senses Hideaway Yao Noi, only 45 minutes from Phuket, and be surrounded by jungle, tiny fishing villages and untouched beaches.

8. Wake to ethereal views of the Taj Mahal from a room at the Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra.

9. Cool off in a swimming pool that replicates an Angkor king’s royal bathing ponds at the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor in Siem Reap.

10. Built around a collection of rammed-earth huts, the spa at Six Senses Hideaway Hua Hin in Thailand is the perfect spot for some serious soothing. Hats off, too, to the resort’s green mindset

11. Have a man-made marvel literally at your doorstep. Check in to the cutting-edge Commune by the Great Wall resort near Beijing; it has a section of the wall running through its grounds.

12. Relax on the beautiful beach at The Datai in Langkawi, Malaysia, surrounded by lush jungle.

13. Go to Sukhumvit Soi 38 in Bangkok at night for duck noodles. It’s also an excellent place to see a cross-section of Thai society – Bangkok’s elite roll up in their Mercs to pick up meals.

14. Feed on an ultra-fresh fish dinner in Kota Kinabalu, from where much of Malaysia’s seafood

15. In Macau, don’t gamble on your lunch. The prix fixe menu is a steal at Robuchon à Galera.

16. Soak in the spectacular views at Dining on the Rocks on Koh Samui in Thailand.

17. Brunch at Basilico in Mumbai’s trendy Colaba district. The breakfasts are good, the coffee is better, but the cheesecakes are always best.

18. Buy a box of the legendary handmade egg tarts at Lord Stow’s Bakery, a true Macau culinary experience.

19. In Japan, dine on a superb bento lunch box, bought from a station or platform kiosk, along with all the other passengers in your carriage on a crowded shinkansen or bullet train.

20. In Vietnam, compare the two completely north and south versions of pho, the national soup dish, in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh.

21. Be adventurous in Cambodia and try some traditional Khmer dishes – delicacies such as stir-fried frogs and dried snake – at Meric restaurant in Siem Reap.

22. In the heart of Bangkok, the secret garden at colonial-styled Agalico is a perfect setting for tea and homemade scones.

23. We challenge you to resist the hawker stands in Penang, Malaysia’s street-eats epicentre, particularly the standout food at Jalan Selamat in Georgetown at night.

24. Rise early in Tokyo and head straight for the Tsukiji fish markets for a sushi breakfast at any of the tiny bar-restaurants. It will blow your mind as well as your taste buds.

25. Take your morning cuppa Hainan-style, and stop into Yut Kee, a nearly 80-year-old coffee shop in Kuala Lumpur, run by the son and grandson of the original owner, who migrated from the Chinese island.

26. Visit Bobby Chinn at his eponymous restaurant, where he cooks fusion dishes – think filet mignon spring roll – that have helped revolutionise Hanoi’s somewhat staid dining scene

27. Join the aid workers set for lunch at the shop in phnom penh, where wonderful pastries are on the menu.

28. Gorge at Rut & Lek Seafood in Bangkok’s Chinatown for cheerfully cheap and amazingly fresh fish right on the street. Stir-fried crab and grilled giant prawns are a must. As is everything else – bring friends, so you can order more dishes.

29. In Bali, sample sensational rooftop dining at Sunset on Six, Seminyak’s newest and coolest bar-restaurant.

30. Enjoy a round table full of fish dishes at East Lake Restaurant on Cheung Chau, one of Hong Kong’s outlying islands, which has no cars; the only access is by ferry. Then, work off the food by walking around the island.

31. In Malaysia, grab a typical Malay breakfast of roti canai: flaky, buttery bread dunked in a spicy chickpea or lentil curry. Then wash it down with a kopi, strong black coffee with a dollop of sweetened condensed milk.

32. Visit La Verticale for expertly done French food by one of Hanoi’s best, Didier Corlou, who used to be head chef at the city’s famous and historic Metropole Hotel.

33. Dine on dim sum at City Hall Maxim’s Palace in Hong Kong. Enjoy the backdrop of Victoria Harbour and a high-decibel soundtrack of animated diners, some of whom you may end up with in a bid to get everyone seated as soon as possible.

34. Off Orchard Road is one of Singapore’s best-kept sweet secrets. Ling Zhi produces a devilishly good banana custard roll that is helium-light and richly sweet without being cloying.

35. Don’t miss cendol, a super- sweet Malaysian/Indonesian dessert of shaved ice, coconut milk, mung bean paste and lots of palm sugar syrup. The place to have it is at Makko Nyonya Restaurant in Melaka.

36. In the Philippines, try the coconut-based spirit lampanog. It is a potent locally made brew infused with star fruit and raisins (and sometimes with bubble gum!). Available at most roadside food stalls, it is the true taste of the island archipelago – with a kick.

37. In Hué, Vietnam, wander through the most majestic of royal tombs in Minh Mang. It dates back to the 1840s and is known for its stunning architectural details, which seem to blend into the local environment.

38. Follow in the footsteps of a million devotees at the Thaipusam Festival, a time of penance and atonement for Hindus, which includes an annual 20-kilometre trek from Kuala Lumpur to the Batu Caves Temple.

39. Seen at dawn, Angkor Wat in Cambodia is an unforgettable sight, but if the crowds there are too much, head for the Bayon temple at Angkor Thom as the sun rises.

40. Take the venerable Star Ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui to Hong Kong Island at night for an unforgettable view. It only costs the equivalent of 87 cents and remains a truly essential Asian experience.

41. When in Pagan, the sweeping valley of temples in Burma, forgo a traditional ox cart by cycling around the thousand-year-old temples or, for a less-strenuous and more champagne-filled view, opt for a 45-minute balloon ride over the scenic ruins.

42. In a city that’s always on the up and up, Hong Kong just had to have the world’s longest escalator. If you’re headed uphill in Central, your legs will be glad it does.

43. The Temple of Dawn in Bangkok is best visited at dusk. You can then watch rice barges gliding along the Chao Phraya.

44. Indonesia’s most-visited attraction, Borobudur, is home to more than 500 images of Buddha, making this a man-made locale unlike anywhere else in the world.

45. Meet the orangutans at Sepilok in Sabah State, Malaysia. Here you can appreciate the wonders of nature and make a donation to help save Asia’s only great ape.

46. Enjoy the majesty of Bangkok’s Grand Palace, either as it sparkles under an early-morning glow or when it lights up the city’s skyline at night.

47. Buy hand-woven textiles at OckPopTok in Luang Prabang, Laos.

48. Stroll down Hong Kong’s crowded Cat Street on weekends. Opium pipes, “new” antiques, jade jewellery, animal-shaped brass locks and 1960s Mao statues are the bargains here.

49. In Bangkok, visit the mother of all markets: Chatuchak Weekend Market. Go early, wear comfortable shoes, bargain and take your time; one day – even three – won’t be enough to see it all.

50. From May to July, visit the Great Singapore Sale in Asia’s shopping capital.

51. Hit Bangkok’s CentralWorld, which has a mind-boggling array of shops, restaurants, cinemas and more. At Christmas or New Year, chill out in one of the many night-time beer gardens in front of the shops and soak up the live music.

52. Need a break from shopping? Head for the Singapore Zoo and Night Safari for a bit of wildlife amid the concrete jungle.

53. In Siem Reap, visit Madagascar-born designer Eric Raisana, by appointment only, at his house-cum-boutique in the backstreets of town. His innovative silk creations will enchant you.

54. In India, stock up on superb handmade writing paper decorated with intricate Indian motifs at Chimanlal’s, haute Mumbai’s stationer of choice since the 1950s.

55. In Tokyo, get high on culture at the Mori Art Gallery on the 53rd floor of the Mori Tower in Tokyo’s amazing Roppongi Hills precinct, then hit the fabulous restaurants, bars and shops at ground level.

56. Jump-start your party at Double Six: Bali’s most rocking club, with its own bungee jump.

57. To get a sense of the old Macau, visit the original Lisboa casino, with its dark gambling pit of coffee-stained tables. For new Macau, try the Sands, the Wynn or Crown.

58. Absorb some history at the Hall of Opium in the Golden Triangle, Thailand. This multimedia museum and research centre illuminates the path opium has travelled from medicine and spice to an addiction that has sparked wars, revolutions and major crime.

59. Enjoy a private long-tail boat tour on Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River.

60. Visit Mae Hong Song to experience how some of Thailand’s diverse hill tribes live.

61. Before it’s completely overrun by tourists, visit Luang Prabang, Laos, which retains its sleepy charm, at least for now. Hire a bicycle for next to nothing as soon as you arrive and keep it for the whole of your visit, so you can pedal about the city’s quiet streets.

62. Visit the historic vietnamese town of hoi an for its incredible culture, shopping, architecture and food.

63. In Bali, experience Galungan and Kuningan, the most important festivals of the Balinese year, celebrated once every 210 days.

64. Soak up Siam Niramit in Bangkok: Cirque du Soleil meets Andrew Lloyd Webber meets Thai culture and history. Arrive early to enjoy some snacks or to get a massage. The best seats are the most expensive, but worth it.

65. Visit Shwedagon Pagoda in Rangoon, Burma, on your birthday, when it is a tradition for long lines of Burmese, who all share the same date of birth, to sweep through the pagoda in a clockwise direction. Why not join them?

66. Take an hour-or-so round trip at dusk on one of Bangkok’s commuter ferries along the chaotic Chao Phraya, the Thai capital’s river of kings.

67. In Hong Kong, take a trip to Tai Long Wan, or Big Wave Bay, in Sai Kung, which is synonymous with hiking. Better still, the beach will make you forget that you’re in one of Asia’s most frenetic cities.

68. Experience the spectacle of Banaue’s rice terraces in the Philippines. They look like giant steps that ascend into the sky, but what you might not know is that they cover more than 10,000 square kilometres and are 2000 years old.

69. In Malaysia, trek up the 830-metre-high Penang Hill and escape the heat of tropical Georgetown; it’s a few degrees cooler.

70. Check out the eye candy at Phangnga Bay, which remains one of Thailand’s most scenic areas and is known as “James Bond Island” for its starring role in the Roger Moore outing The Man with the Golden Gun.

71. Take a train journey with a difference: the five- to six-hour trip from Kota Kinabalu through the rainforest up to Tenom; and three days on the luxury Eastern & Oriental from Singapore to the centre of Bangkok.

72. In Malaysia, go native in Taman Negara, one of the region’s oldest rain forests. For the eco traveller, this ecosystem is rich in biodiversity, with animals such as tree shrews, flying lemurs, sea otters and pangolins; they are rare but can still be spotted.

73. In the Philippines, kick off your thongs and walk barefoot along Boracay’s White Beach, where the granules of sand are so miniscule that even in the full heat of a summer day, they remain relatively cool.

74. In Japan, wander the safe, atmospheric and beautifully preserved backstreets and laneways of historic Kyoto by night. Then head to Gion for an amazing meal, and afterwards take a post-prandial stroll along the river, a popular haunt for local lovers.

75. Paddle for your life on a white-water-rafting lark down Ayung River in Bali with adventure pioneers Sobek. Class I and Class II rapids ensure many thrills but few spills on the 11-kilometre adventure.

76. When in Beijing, allow a full day of sightseeing in the magnificent, stunningly regal Forbidden City, home of the Emperor and his royal household for almost five centuries.

77. Stalk the rare Asiatic lion at the Sasan Gir sanctuary in Gujarat, western India, the only place outside Africa where you’ll find lions in the wild

78. In the Philippines, get up close and personal with a tarsier, one of the world’s smallest and most endangered primates. Cartoon-cute with saucer eyes and spindly frog-like hands, they reside on the eco-friendly island of Bohol, in a sanctuary to ensure the little tackers’ survival.

79. Order a Femme Fatale in Raffles Hotel Le Royal’s colonial-cosy Elephant Bar in Cambodia. The drink commemorates Jacqueline Kennedy’s 1967 stay to fulfill “a lifelong dream to visit Angkor Wat”.

80. Groove at tropical-chic restaurant/bar/beach club Ku De Ta in Bali. Then, with a last spurt of energy, have an early breakfast before the hedonists roll in, or dinner or drinks when they return to toast yet another day spent in paradise.

81. Smell the horseflesh at one of the world’s greatest race tracks: Hong Kong’s Happy Valley. Place a bet, then sit in the stands with the throng of cheering locals.

82. Dance the night away at Zouk in Singapore. While it was once the no-fun city of “do not” signs, the island nation now has myriad clubs like this that host some of the best DJs in the world.

83. Sink a tall, cold Angkor beer while you take in the sunset at “the F”, the Foreign Correspondents’ Club in Phnom Penh, the expat bar to beat them all. The geckos on the walls would agree. There’s also another branch of the FCC in Siem Reap that is well worth a look.

84. Drop in to Bar Yamazaki in Sapporo, Japan and meet 89-year-old Tatsuro Yamazaki, whose establishment celebrated its 50th anniversary last year. Tell him where you’re from and he’ll play your national anthem on the bar’s PA and plonk your national flag down with your drink.

85. Scuba dive off of Sipadan Island in Malaysia. This oceanic paradise offers some 3000 species of fish and hundreds of types of coral; perfect, in other words, for an underwater break.

86. In Vientiane, Laos, order a large bottle of Beerlao (definitely one of our favourite Asian brews) at The Deck bar, one of the capital’s best and most happening hangs, with sweeping views over the Mekong River.

87. Disappear down the rabbit hole at White Rabbit in Singapore’s hip Dempsey area. Housed in a restored chapel, this quirky, Alice in Wonderland-themed bar has one of the city’s finest margaritas, as well as a range of interesting takes on classic cocktails.

88. When in Bangkok, make a bee-line for The Oriental and order a signature Chao Phraya cocktail, a tribute to this venerable hotel’s eponymous location by the city’s river.

Save | Affordable Europe

T+L European planner
By Alison Cameron, Sarah Thomas and Yolanda Cross


Planning a trip to Europe, and counting the cost? From planes, trains and automobiles to hotels and apartments, T+L provides you with the latest tips and travel news that will make your trip easier and save you money.


Getting there

In response to the global economic downturn at the end of last year airlines began offering business travellers some of the best deals that have been seen for many years. Australian travel commentator Martin Kelly, from TravelTrends.biz, says: “2009 is set to be the best year to travel internationally. Airlines are looking to stimulate demand.” One of the techniques being used to lure passengers back in to premium seats is companion fares. When you buy one ticket at the premium price you are given a second identical ticket for free. Japan Airlines (au.jal.com) was offering a companion business class fare for flights from Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane to London and Paris for $6079 (plus taxes).

Meanwhile Etihad (www.etihadairways.com) also released economy companion fares to 13 European cities with prices starting at $1515 (including taxes).

Industry observers believe that discounted prices and offers which have traditionally been restricted “early bird” packages, usually available from around October until March, may begin to appear throughout the year. As airline prices and plans are changing in response to demand the best way to keep up to date with all the latest deals is to subscribe to online airline newsletters. Online travel agents travel.com.au and bestflights.com.au also have newsletters that highlight new deals as they are announced.


LOW-COST CARRIERS

As more budget-conscious travellers opt for low-cost airlines, discount European carriers are expanding their networks. With 40 new routes planned for 2009, Ryanair (ryanair.com) is leading the way with flights between Edinburgh and Malta, and Oslo and Bolonga.

Rival EasyJet (easyjet.com) plans to launch 22 new routes this year, including from London Gatwick to Copenhagen and Berlin to Dubrovnik.

Lufthansa (lufthansa.com) has just launched its own low-cost carrier Lufthansa Italia, connecting Milan Malpensa to eight other European destinations, including Lisbon and Barcelona. We found a round trip ticket from Milan to Lisbon for $193.But the best offers, at the time of writing, came from Ryanair, which was offering free seats throughout Europe. There were restrictions to the number of free seats available on each flight and it took time and patience to find return flights.
However, by being flexible with times, dates and even the destination it was possible to score free return tickets.

T+L TIP when booking online beware that insurance and checked-in luggage is often automatically selected. To avoid paying unnecessary charges make sure you unclick and update the page before making any payment.


Getting around...

CARS:

Short-term car rentals: The biggest news in European car rentals is short-term hires. Last spring, Hertz introduced Hertz 369, a program which allows travellers in France, Italy, Germany, Spain, UK, Switzerland, Belgium, Luxembourg and the Netherlands to rent cars for three, six and nine-hour periods. This allows travellers the independence to have a day jaunt to the countryside, travel between neighbouring cities, or take one-way commutes to the airport.However, like many European deals or special offers this is not currently available to book from Australia or New Zealand. You have to book once you are in Europe (hertz.co.uk).

Another option is the new Connect service from Hertz (connectbyhertz.com). This is a Mini Cooper car-share scheme with hourly rates for members. Again this is only available when you are in Europe and only in Paris and London.The annual membership is $109 with hourly rates starting at $8.60 an hour with the first 50 kilometres free and 55 cents for every extra mile. Fuel, insurance and roadside assistance is all included making it a very attractive option.
Fuel efficiencyIn Europe Avis, Europcar and Hertz have the Toyota Prius Hybrid as part of their fleets and these can be booked from here in advance.

Another alternative is to rent a fuel-efficient diesel, such as the Ford Focus Diesel and Opel Astra models. This can reduce the pain of high European fuel costs and offer substantial savings. But be warned, diesel is not automatically cheaper in all countries. Many Eastern Europe countries such as Slovakia, Estonia and Latvia have very expensive diesel but it is a good economic choice in France and Portugal where diesel is 33 cents a litre cheaper than unleaded.

T+L TIP: When booking a car online or by phone directly with rental companies, your credit card details will be held but the payment will not be made until the car is picked up. However, if you want to lock in the exchange rate then book through a travel agent who has access to contracted Australian or New Zealand dollar rates and pay up front.


CRUISE:

In terms of the best all-inclusive cost, you would be hard pressed to beat a cruise trip in the current climate. "It’s just a great value holiday,” says Brett Dudley, owner of cruise travel agency Ecruising. "For anyone going from Australia, there’s no comparison to a land-based holiday. It’s just such an economical way to see Europe."Once all costs are factored into a driving or land-based holiday, costs can reach $1000 a day, says Dudley, whereas a seven-night itinerary with Costa Cruises (costacruise.com) can cost from $100 a day, which covers accommodation, transportation, all meals and entertainment.

The fares for top-end cruise operators can reach up to $800 a day, but cover everything from luxury suites to fine dining, alcoholic beverages and gratuities.Fares and itineraries are also set fairly far in advance with heavily discounted early-bird booking savings, such as 2010 world cruises with 60 per cent off. Competition between cruise-line operators is less fierce this year than in the previous few years, but there are still also many late deals available up to two or three weeks ahead of departure.

Cruise versus land-based tripBy sea Luxury operator Silversea Cruises (toll-free Australia 1300 306 872; 0800 701 427 New Zealand; silversea.com). has a 14-day Venice to Monte Carlo itinerary, with ports of call including Croatia, Sicily, Rome, Sorrento and Livorno, departing August 1. Prices start from $10,830 per person, based on double occupancy in a vista suite, which includes accommodation, dining, onboard entertainment, wines, champagne and spirits throughout the ship and gratuities.

By land A comparable itinerary would mean booking 11 different top-end hotels. Luxury properties in the regions covered by the cruise can be sought at about $1020 a night for an equivalent standard of room in Venice’s Hotel Gritti Palace. When all the equivalent costs of food, air travel between cities and ground transportation are added on, however, cruising can work out as a better value option.


HIGH-SPEED RAIL:

Advances in Europe’s rail infrastructure have shaved hours off inter-country travel. Touring this way also saves precious holiday time in avoiding lengthy check-in requirements at airports, while most stations are conveniently located in the centre of cities. "The city-centre to city-centre trip is value because you’re not having to pay to get out to the airports and obviously a lot of people are time-poor so this helps as well," says Greg McCallum, national sales manager for Rail Plus (1300 555 003; +64 9 377 5415; railplus.com.au). The Eurostar route between London and Paris takes just two hours and 15 minutes, with return fares from $130.

Elsewhere, a new route between Madrid and Barcelona has cut three hours off the trip, which is now about two hours and 45 minutes. Rail operator Thalys, which runs between Paris, Cologne, Brussels and Amsterdam, is also launching faster routes; its Paris-Amsterdam trip is now three hours and 15 minutes. New fast routes are also scheduled to open between Figueres, Spain and Perpignan, France this year, while Italy is continuing to expand its high-speed network with a Rome-Milan service of three-and-a-half hours that runs 18 times a day. Be aware that some rail lines only allow bookings 60-90 days in advance.

LUXURY ROUTESCentral Europe has a new top-end rail service with the launch of the Budapest-based Danube Express(+44 1462 441400; danube-express.com), which takes in destinations including Prague, Vienna, Berlin and Istanbul. The 10-day Bosphorus Journey itinerary travels from London to Istanbul and covers seven nights’ hotel accommodation and two nights on the train, sightseeing tours and most meals, from about $5730 per person The Royal Scotsman (royalscotsman.com) runs a four-day tour out of Edinburgh with stops at Inverness and Perth, and includes the opportunity for fishing, clay-pigeon shooting and guided walks, with all meals and drinks included for $7230.

T+L TIP The UK is jammed packed with stately homes and historical buildings. The Great Heritage Pass (britishheritagepass.com) offers free access to over 580 properties. Prices start at a very reasonable $70 for four days and a family 4-day pass costs $216. A typical entry fee is $32 per person, for a visit to Leeds Castle in Kent, making the passes great value.

Breakout: BEATING EXCHANGE RATESAustralian travellers have not had the luxury that US visitors to Europe have had with some hotel chains offering fixed US dollar rates to beat currency changes. Many operators have included currency surcharge fees to counter the volatile economic climate, although there are some operators that have guaranteed no extra fees.

Peregrine Adventures introduced a no currency surcharge policy last November on all its tours departing up until August 31, 2009. Marketing manager Jane Reed said the company had been confident that the prices there were offering weren’t going to be impacted by fluctuating exchange rates. "It certainly gives the consumer confidence in booking," she says. "There’s so much going on in the marketplace at the moment; on the one hand there’s a certain amount of discounting going on, but there are also surcharges. Our policy just cuts through all that confusion for the traveller to let them book with confidence."


Where to stay...

BUSINESS BRAND HOTELS:

Staying at a business chain hotel is a good way to score a bargain. Because corporate travellers are their bread-and-butter, these hotels often offer reduced rates to fill up rooms on the weekends.“At the end of 2008, there was a rapid deterioration in occupancy in most European cities," says Ben Walker, research manager for TRI Hospitality Consulting in London. "For the first time in many years, even London is a more affordable destination."


WEEKEND DELIGHTS:

At the time of writing, weekend rates at the Hilton London Olympia Hotel (380 Kensington High Street, W14 8NL; +44 207 603 3333; hilton.com/olympia) had dipped around 33 per cent to as low as $194 a night, while end-of the week prices at the Park Lane Intercontinental (One Hamilton Place, W1J 7QY; +44 207 409 3131; ichotelsgroup.com) dropped about 20 per cent to $645 per night. Even in busy periods it is worth checking out if hotels offer weekend deals that may include breakfast, free parking or family specials.

But as difficult as things are for established brands, says Walker, new hotels will have to work even harder to fill their rooms. Scandic Hotels (+46 8517 51720; scandichotels.com), for example, is opening seven new properties in Europe this year as part of a planned five-year expansion. New outposts include the Scandic Oslo Airport and a rebranding of the Palace Hotel in Copenhagen. When we went online the chain was offering a 40 per cent reduction per night at the Copenhagen Webers Hotel for guest staying between Friday and Sunday. The weekend rate was $199 compared to $330 during the week.Spain-based Sol Melia (solmelia.com) is also debuting several new hotels.

As part of its re-launch of the Gran Melia luxury brand, the company opened the doors of the renovated Gran Meliá Colón in the old quarter of Seville in February, and will open the doors of the Gran Meliá Creta in Crete in June. At the time of its launch, rooms were available online for $283 per night – almost 50 per cent off standard rates. In June the $240 million Rocco Forte Verdura Gofl and Spa Resort (Contrada Verdura Sciacca; +44 207 7663141; roccofortecollection.com) is due to open on the south coast of Sicily. Opening deals included seven nights for the price of five or 12 nights for the price of nine.


LOW-RATE CHAINS:

Now more than ever, budget brands are popping up across Europe. This January, Hotel Indigo (+44 207 835 2000; hotelindigo.com), Intercontinental Hotel Group's boutique brand, opened its first property in London, with plans for three more in the city by 2012. The 64-room Hotel Indigo London Paddington is long on personality and perks and short on price; double rooms start from $272 per night.

CitizenM (+31 208 117 055, citizenm.com) has opened its second property, CitizenM Amsterdam City, with a third hotel in Glasgow expected later this year. The openings are part of a five-year plan to have 20 properties throughout Europe. The current rates start at about $193 per night. The small rooms still manage to accommodate king-size beds, flat-screen televisions, wall-to-wall windows, and a MoodPad that allows technophiles to adjust all the room's gadgets (television, music, window blinds, temperature, coloured lighting and wake-up alarm) from one spot.


DESIGNER DEALS:

Last-minute bookings are become the worrying norm for the hotel industry so to encourage guests to book in advance Design Hotels (designhotels.com) is offering 10 per cent off bookings made 21 days in advance. The offer is valid only at certain of the company’s member hotels but includes properties in Italy, Spain, Estonia, Germany and Turkey.


VILLA RENTALS:

European villas have always offered great value, especially if you have a large family or group of friends to split the tab.

* Abercrombie & Kent has an arm dedicated to villas and apartments. At Sanctuary Retreats (1300 851 800; sanctuary-retreats.com) there are more than 50 properties to browse. On offer are two types of rental; the villa only “tailor-made” rentals or “sanctuary hosted” which includes a welcome at the airport, daily maid, a stocked kitchen and breakfast delivered on your first morning. On the online special deals page there were discounted villas offering prices 25 per cent cheaper than 2008 tariffs. The five-bedroom Tuscan property Podere Il Poggio has a permanent $3000 drop of price for a week-long stay. The house sleeps 10 making the new rate $1860 per person. Other offers include free hampers and discounted golf games.

* Elegant Resorts and Villas (02 8370 4850; elegantresorts.com.au) has a range of apartments in Florence, Paris, London, Venice and Rome. At the time of going to press this Australian company was offering a $200 discount on selected apartments in Italy. A stylish two-bedroom apartment in Rome’s Spanish Steps area starts at $365 per night for a minimum three-night stay. Meanwhile in London a two-bedroom apartment in Chelsea starts at $3530 a week.

* Citadines (citadines.com) offers what they describe as “apart’hotels” which are units with kitchens and other facilities including high-speed internet and access to meeting rooms. Citadines are currently operating in France, Germany, Belgium and the UK. Their website has a promotions page listing the current offers which can run up to two months in advance. At the time of writing the Citadines Paris La Défense, which is 10 minutes from the Champs-Élysées, was offering a weekend special; an apartment for four for $193 a night.


T+L TIP: European school holidays are July and August so only week-long bookings are available. For more flexible short stays avoid those months.

The List | 20 Travel Secrets You Must Know

Over the past year, Travel + Leisure editors and correspondents have scoured the globe to unearth the best undiscovered tips and tools for travelling smarter, faster, safer and more affordably. Whether you’re trying to identify the perfect seat on a plane or snare a top table at a restaurant, you’ll find all the right solutions in our guide.


1. Request extras with your room
If you’re booking several nights at a quiet time of year – or if you regularly visit one particular property – a hotel will often be willing to include some extra services (spa treatments, meals, transportation from the airport and other perks) in the price of your room.

The Hotel Hana-Maui (+1 808 248 8211; hotelhanamaui.com; doubles from $495), a Travel + Leisure World’s Best Award winner, has recently informally offered guests planning to stay five nights or more in a standard room a dinner for two at Kauiki, its seafood restaurant, plus a massage (a $400 value). Emmalani Park, the hotel’s head of reservations, says the best approach is to speak to a manager or a sales or marketing agent before you arrive: “Both can be more flexible than reservation agents.”


2. Pack these security-friendly hotel amenities
Fiddling around, decanting your favourite hair and body products into security approved mini containers is a thing of the past with some of our favourite hotels around the world stocking high-quality products in containers which meet the new Department of Transport regulations (100ml/grams or under).

Typically, in a standard room, bathroom products are 35ml and 75ml in suites. Sydney's Observatory stocks L'Occitane while the Hilton Hotels, domestically and internationally, have a range of especially created Crabtree and Evelyn products which are part of their La Source range. At Christchurch's Spire all rooms have 75ml New Zealand-made Evolu products which include a moisturiser with sunblock. In London the Connaught, Claridges and Berkeley all stock Asprey, while in the US all Ritz-Carlton properties have Bulgari bathroom treats.


3. Test the waters with a one-way cruise
“Repositioning cruises” used to be the only way to find a deal on a luxury cruise. When the weather changes seasonally the cruise ships move their ships from the Mediterranean in summer to warmer Caribbean waters in the winter and similarly from Alaska to the Caribbean.

Rather than sail with an empty ship the cruises are discounted to encourage passengers to join these “repositioning” journeys. But as companies expand their itineraries across the globe one-way cruises have become a new way for passengers to experience life on the high seas for less. Holland America and Carnival Cruises are both lines that offer one-way routes from Vancouver to Alaska in seven days.

Meanwhile Majestic America has a one-way cruise from Juneau, in Alaska, to Seattle. Holland America also offers travellers the option of taking one leg of their Grand World Voyage cruise, which lasts 117 nights and includes 39 ports on five continents. Depending on where you join the cruise you can buy a single leg ranging from 22 to 69 nights. In 2009 and 2010 the cruises depart in January and through Travel the World (1300 857437; traveltheworld.com.au) legs start from $5428 while the full cruise starts from $26,229.


4. City secret: London
Spend the $4 deposit on a visitor's Oyster card at any tube or bus station and save up to 50 per cent on your daily fares. There is a built-in capping system so the most you can ever spend in a day on Central London public transport is $13. Children under 16 travel free on trams and buses.


5. Seek out the best seats on board
The distance between rows of seats (known as pitch and still calculated in inches in the airline industry) varies from plane to plane and even between rows. In general domestic carriers, the pitch for seats is between 30–33 inches while exit rows range from 37–39 inches. But how much of a difference does a few inches make?

With 31 inches, a 183cm tall person's knee would touch the seat in front of him; with 34 inches he could put a hard cover book in his seat pocket without his knees touching; and with 36 inches he could get up from a window seat and walk to the aisle without disturbing the person next to him. Exit rows can vary within the same aircraft. When they are aligned one right after another the front exit-row seats will not recline.

For more information on seat pitches and configurations for most carriers visit seatguru.com or check out the airline websites.


6. How to snag a prized table
T+L US contributing editor and restaurant guru Anya von Bremzen has two time-honoured tips: 1) Show up a half-hour prior to your desired seating to catch any cancellations; and 2) send a fax or email, a strategy known to work at even the most popular spots such as El Bulli, in Spain (+34 97 215 0457; fax: +34 97 215 0717; bulli@elbulli.com).

Here are suggestions from reservationists at three other hard-to-book restaurants: L’ASTRANCE, PARIS “Two months before the date you desire, call at precisely 10am. Try to get on the waiting list, as we limit it to three parties; so if you make it onto the list, there’s a realistic chance of getting a table.” 4 Rue Beethoven, 16th Arr.; +33 1 40 50 84 40; dinner for two $581.BABBO, NEW YORK “Call at 10 am one month ahead of the date you want. And for a last-minute booking, try 9pm the night before, or after 3pm the day of.” 110 Waverly Place; +1 212 777 0303; dinner for two $120. FRENCH LAUNDRY, NAPA VALLEY “We’re open seven days, so call on the weekend, not during the week. Also, try opentable.com – we usually release two tables (one seats two, the other four) on a daily basis to the website.” 6640 Washington St., Yountville; +1 707 944 2380; dinner for two $480.


7. How to dial emergency abroad
All EU countries 112Australia 000Canada US 911Hong Kong 999Japan 119Thailand 191Argentina 911Mexico 060Israel 100New Zealand 111Switzerland 144Vanuatu 112


8. Late-closing Museums
Increasingly museums in Australasia, adopting a successful overseas trend, are opening their doors outside their normal hours allowing visitors to beat the crowds and visit popular exhibitions when most people have gone home.

Melbourne's NGV Australia (03 8620 222; ngv.vic.gov.au) is open on Thursdays until 9pm while Sydney's Art Gallery of NSW (02 9225 1740; artgallery.nsw.gov.au has “Art After Hours” on Wednesday evenings. Visitors can enjoy talks and films about current exhibitions and the galleries remain open until 9pm.

At the National Gallery of Australia in Canberra (02 6240 6411; nga.gov.au) it is worth ringing in advance to check if they have any late-night viewings as they change depending on the exhibitions on show.

At Wellington's National Museum of New Zealand Te Papa (+64 4 381 7000; tepapa.govt.nz) there is late opening until 9pm every Thursday. It is also open every day of the year including Christmas Day with public holidays often a time when you can have the galleries to yourself.


9. Kiwi hotel ratings
New Zealand does not use a star rating system for its hotels but rather uses Qualmark (qualmark.co.nz) which is an independently assessed agency backed by Tourism New Zealand. It rates all types of accommodation from backpacker lodges to the most exclusive properties. Qualmark’s user-friendly website allows you to pick locations and specify the standard and type of accommodation you want.


10. Watch out for the water
Flight attendants begin most flights serving bottled water, but if they turn to the plane’s onboard tanks, there may be cause for concern. According to the most recent available US study, one out of every six planes had coliform bacteria in its water tanks.

Since 2004, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has ordered 46 domestic airlines in the US to regularly flush, disinfect and test their water systems. Richard Naylor, the EPA’s aircraft drinking water rule manager, suggests that concerned passengers avoid drinking coffee or tea on board (water may not reach a cleansing boil). T+L tip: Also avoid using bathroom tap water (use wipes or mouthwash). Opting for canned drinks or stocking up on water after clearing security may be the answer.


11. Country secret: Japan
Sick of lugging heavy bags, along with weighty, shopping purchases, as you get off innumerable trains in the land of the rising sun? Help is at hand. Japan’s network of eminently reliable courier van services, such as Nippon Express and Black Cat, can relieve you of your burden for as little as $20. Most hotel staff can easily organise a courier for you, with your items, including pieces of luggage or cartons, waiting for you at your desired Japanese destination within a day or two.


12. How flat is flat
Many airlines have introduced “lie-flat” or “flat-bed” seats in their business and first class cabins, but don’t assume that “flat” translates to horizontal. For in-depth analysis of airline seats on a range of carriers, turn to flatseats.com, an industry watchdog site that ranks seats on factors such as configuration, width, cushion comfort, privacy, massage options and more.

FlatSeats’ data comes from Skytrax, a UK-based airline consultancy whose employees spend an average of 65 hours in the air per week. (Their top flat-seat picks? British Airways, South African Airways and Virgin Atlantic.)
163º Aer Lingus
169º El Al
170º Continental, Japan Airlines
171ºAmerican, Lufthansa
175º Air France, Qantas
180º Air Canada, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Delta, Emirates, Jet Airways, Qatar, Singapore, South African, United, Virgin


13. Score last-minute discounted tickets to shows
Theatre tickets are not only expensive but increasingly difficult to find. Many performances sell out months in advance before you have even booked your holiday. The good news is that around the world there are ways of enjoying an evening out but only if you are flexible about what you see.

LONDON The Society of London Theatre has a box office in the centre of Leicester Square which offers cheap tickets on the day of performance. It opens at 10am but you can check out what is available online in advance (officiallondontheatre.co.uk/tkts/today/). When we checked it out, tickets for big productions like Chicago were on offer for $62.80 instead of $114 and Brief Encounter had tickets for $54 instead of $95. There are different windows for evening and matinee performances so check you have the correct one or you will have to queue up again. Even if the half price ticket booth has nothing you like, it is worth checking directly with theatres to see if they have standby tickets.

NEW YORK Broadway offers lotteries of usually between 10–25 reduced priced tickets per performance, especially in the slow months of January, February, September and October. Different theatres have varying rules but typically you are asked to give your name to the theatre two to four hours before curtain and return half an hour before the start of the show to see if you are a winner. Each winner can buy two tickets usually for around $20. When we checked, tickets for Hairspray were on offer though the box office for up to $176 but the lottery cost $25 and there were also standing room tickets at the back of the theatre available for $20.

MELBOURNE Half Tix (halftixmelbourne.com) at Melbourne's town hall offers reduced price tickets for sale on the day of the performance. However, the choice of shows is limited compared to other international cities. When we logged on, tickets for Menopause the Musical were on offer for $28.95 instead of the standard $48 price. Some theatres, including the Melbourne Theatre Company, offer “rush” seats which are available two hours prior to the start of the production and cost around $16-20. This is strictly first come, first served and be warned people are prepared to queue for hours for popular shows.

AUCKLAND Individual companies run their own “rush” ticket systems. Typically they are available if you are under 25. The New Zealand Opera has tickets for $25 on sale at 9am on the day of the performance with one ticket available per person with identification. The full price of tickets varies between productions but can range from $43.50 up to $139.


14. Extend the hold on your reservations
Most airlines don’t want you to hold your flight reservation for longer than 24 hours (the industry standard), as it ties up valuable tickets. However, there’s more flexibility than you might think, especially if you’re working with a travel agent over the phone rather than booking online, buying a ticket in a high-fare class, travelling during off-peak periods, or travelling internationally.


15. City secret: Berlin
From 6 to 10pm on Thursdays, you can get in free to the permanent exhibitions at several national museums, including the Picture Gallery, the New National Gallery and the Egyptian Museum. For a full list, visit smb.spk-berlin.de.


16. Fly business class for less
With the global economy forcing businesses to tighten their belts it’s a fine time to score deals for business class seats. To find out about drops in fares or specials, request newsletters from the airlines you use the most. Also sign up for online alerts from travel agents and web-based travel companies. Holiday seasons such as Christmas are traditionally a good time to fly because it is a time when business travellers stay home.

Webjet (webjet.com.au) offers the option to compare business class seats and it is possible to see when in a week it is best to fly for the most competitive fare. Tuesdays and Wednesdays come out as consistent low-cost performers. The site also has a business class alert system and deals page. Mature travellers may also be able to pick up good business class discounts. At the time of writing Thai Airways (thaiair.com), for example, was offering special “seniors” fares for their Royal Silk Business that is available to those aged 55 and above.

Also consider travelling part of your journey in economy and part in business to make significant savings. With the mix economy and business fares you can specify which leg you want in business. On a long haul flight you can move up to business on the leg when it is time to sleep and enjoy a “flat seat” without the full fare price.


17. Find complete train timetables
Rail Europe (03 9642 8644; raileurope.com.au) specialises in travel throughout the EU. It lists train companies within countries as well as itineraries that cross borders. There is also a helpful section on train travel tips. But when you are travelling within a country and looking for all available train times, be sure to check country-specific websites which often display more options. To make it easier for visitors, most European rail websites have an English language button. However, not all sites allow foreign credit cards so you may have to wait until you are in the country to buy tickets in person at a station.

Trip: Florence to VeniceNumber of daily departures on Rail Europe : 15Number of daily departures on Italy's Trenitalia ( www.trenitalia.it) : 18 Trip: Seville to Madrid Departures on Rail Europe :16Departures on Spain's Renfe (www.Renfe www.renfe.es) : 22Trip: Hamburg to BerlinDepartures on Rail Europe :20Departures on Germany's Die Bahn (www.bahn.de) 23


18. City Secrets: New York and Sydney
Avoid Looking for a taxi in New York between 4.30and 5.30am and 4.30 and 5.30pm. This is when many drivers change shifts or go off duty. Similarly, Sydney has an intractable 3pm driver “change-over” period when taxis can be near impossible to secure.


19. For whom the road tolls
If you are heading off for a road trip around Australia in a rental car there is no need to waste time in the long cash toll queues. If you already have an electronic toll tag in your car take it with you and use it in other cities. According to Melbourne City Link administration the tag does not have to match the registration of the owner of the tag so it is perfectly legal to carry your tag with you in a hire car when you go interstate.

If you don't have a tag or are travelling into Australia there is currently no facility to buy a short-term tag but some toll companies and road authorities will let you pay later but usually with an extra fee. There are signs at the toll area giving phone numbers to call for late payment.


20. Search globally, not locally
Search engines scour hundreds of airline sites and then offer the results in one handy location. Yet many sites also have foreign companion sites. When you first search somewhere such as Expedia you may start with the US parent site but if you are accessing a computer in Australia then it will redirect to the local version.

So in Australia searching expedia.com will redirect you to expedia.com.au. However if you are looking for information relating to travel in Britain searching expedia.co.uk will bring you more extensive results with more options and lower costs, than the other two addresses.

The List | 22 Amazing Places in Australia

With so many incredible landscapes to choose from, many outstanding spots in Australia and New Zealand simply get overlooked. Travel + Leisure has put together a list of top secret places that have remained lesser-known destinations – until now.


1. COCKBURN RANGE, EAST KIMBERLEY, WA

What is it? As imposing as Uluru, the Cockburn Range at El Questro Wilderness Park, at the north-eastern end of the Gibb River Road, rises like a vast fortress more than 600 metres above the East Kimberley plains. It plays a starring role in Baz Lurhmann's Australia where it serves as a constant, mesmerising backdrop.

Why is it overlooked? It's the Bungle Bungles in Purnululu National Park, several hours' drive or a light plane flight south of El Questro, that attract the attention in the Kimberley. Yet the Cockburns have many of the same features, including deep gorges and pristine waterholes.

We love it because... The Cockburns completely dominate the landscape on the Gibb River Road between the Pentecost River and the Great Northern Highway. From every vantage point, thickly wooded slopes rise to majestic golden-orange hued sandstone cliffs. At the western end near the Pentecost River, the cliffs take the form of long narrow peninsulas, giving the impression of a handful of "fingers".

Driving the rough 4WD track that runs around the base of the escarpment allows you to experience its enormous variety of landscapes, from grasslands to mudflats that stretch to infinity (or at least all the way to Wyndham) and shimmer like a desert oasis. Boab trees, some more than 1000 years old, stand sentinel above the bushy scrub, there's a plethora of birdlife including ospreys, brown whistler ducks and spinafex pigeons, timid freshwater crocs lolling in drying billabongs, and two-metre-plus "salties" patrolling the Pentecost River.

Much of the drive around the base follows the Karunjie Track, the original stock route used by rugged drovers from Derby to Wyndham and on to the Northern Territory. One of the best views of the Cockburns is from Home Valley Station in the late afternoon, when the setting sun turns the cliffs from deep orange to burning pinks, purples and reds.

How to get there From Kununurra it's about an hour's drive to Emma Gorge Resort at El Questro, the departure point for most people's explorations of the Cockburns. El Questro offers a guided 4WD tour around the vast, varied terrain of the range. You can drive it yourself but you need to be thoroughly prepared and have significant off-road driving experience. Scenic flights provide amazing views of the Cockburns; take a helicopter from El Questro or a light plane from Kununurra. Selected outback tour operators in the Kimberley offer private bushwalking expeditions.

Where to stay The Emma Gorge Resort, El Questro Wilderness Park (08 9169 1777; elquestro.com.au; doubles from $270), has tented cabins with private ensuite and a decent, if overpriced, restaurant. Emma Gorge, an hour's walk from the camp, is part of the Cockburn Range and gives a taste of the spectacular scenery. Home Valley Station (08 9161 4322, homevalley.com.au) is located on the western bank of the Pentecost River, about an hour's drive from El Questro. It offers three levels of accommodation plus camping, with a variety of tours, on an historic cattle property run by the Indigenous Land Corporation as a TAFE for indigenous trainees. Grass Castle luxury bungalows, doubles from $420; Homestead Guesthouse Rooms (chic motel-style accommodation), doubles from $230; Sand Castle safari style eco-tents, sleeping four, from $190.

Don't miss Playing out your drover fantasy on the mudflats on the northern side of the Range. These baked, cracked mudflats – where the stampede scenes in Australia were filmed – are transformed into a vast sea during the Wet as the inland rivers empty their contents into the Cambridge Gulf.

The details Qantas and Virgin Blue have regular flights to Darwin and Perth. Both Airnorth and Skywest service the Darwin-Kununurra route and the Perth-Broome-Kununurra route. You can rent a 4WD in Kununurra; Europcar has a large selection (europcar.com.au). El Questro Wilderness Park is open from April 1 to October 31. The Cockburn Range 4WD circuit tour costs $227 per person; 30-minute scenic helicopter flights cost from $185 per person (08 9169 1777; elquestro.com.au). Willis's Walkabouts (08 8985 2134; bushwalkingholidays.com.au) offers a two-week Green Kimberley tour, which includes seven days bushwalking in the Cockburn Ranges. – Sally Webb


2. BARRINGTON TOPS, NEW SOUTH WALES

What is it? With steep ridges, wild streams, and rainforest wilderness, Barrington Tops National Park is a deserving recipient of its World Heritage status. The 74,000-hectare national park lies close to the well-travelled Pacific Highway, but the hour-long detour is far enough for the park to be bypassed by most travellers.

Why is it overlooked? The Blue Mountains are a better-known World Heritage alternative, but those willing to go the extra distance, literally, will find the Barrington area reaps equal rewards, without the crowds.

We love it because... even if it were filled with visitors, Barrington's natural environs would be worth the effort for a weekend or longer, any time from September to May. Crisp, clear waters tumble down from the 1500m-high plateau, the thick rainforest is magically still, and the lack of competition for the trails is a positive. From the Dungog entrance, Burraga Swamp, tucked away high up in the hills, may be the jewel in Barrington's crown. Tree ferns and towering Antarctic Beech trees greet walkers on the short (30-minute return) trail, which turns more Tolkien-esque the further you go.

The Williams River day area offers short tracks and swims in the crisp, clear waters. Hardier types should leave one car here and drive up Lagoon Pinch Road for the 7km, muddy, leaf-littered, Rocky Crossing walk. Allowing time for plenty of detours down the side tracks to the Pool of Reflection or Rocky Crossing itself captures the best of this trail, and a relative abundance of rare lyrebirds will reward many visitors to the whole Williams River area.

How to get there Fly to Newcastle where you'll need to rent a car (two-wheel-drives are sufficient) on arrival. From New Zealand, fly into Sydney, rent a car, and make the three-and-a-half hour drive north along the Sydney-Newcastle expressway (F3). Follow the Pacific Highway through Raymond Terrace to reach the park's entry points.

Where to stay, Camping and bed and breakfasts are the best options.

Yeranda Cottages (02 4992 1208; yeranda.com.au) are ideal for exploring the southern half of the park. Elouera ($50-$80 per person per night) is the most popular of Yeranda's four cottages. Sunrise Cottage (02 6559 1228; jacksonsfarmstay.com; doubles from $150) is 30 minutes from Gloucester with visitors renting this three-bedroom house enjoying 607 hectares in which to relax. Eaglereach Wilderness Resort (02 4938 8233; eaglereach.com.au; doubles from $210) is an upmarket alternative though it's more than an hour's drive into Dungog or Gloucester to the park.

Don't miss About an hour's drive from Gloucester through the rainforest park, Devils Hole Lookout offers magnificent views over the sweeping Barrington Plateau. In winter, the 1400-metre-high site (and its much appreciated barbecue area) receives snow, so check if the snow gates are locked before you visit.

The details Qantaslink, Jetstar and Virgin Blue fly to Newcastle. Both Tourism NSW (visitnsw.com) and the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (nationalparks.nsw.gov.au) have extensive information on the National Park. Barrington Outdoor Adventure Centre (126 Thunderbolts Way, Gloucester; 02 6558 2093; boac.com.au) offers guided trips and bike, canoe and kayak rental. One-day tours cost $130 per person. – Sue White


3. WHITE ISLAND, BAY OF PLENTY, NEW ZEALAND

What is it? One of New Zealand's most active volcanoes, White Island (or Te Puia o Whakaari in Maori) is in the Bay of Plenty on the eastern coast of the North Island.

Why is it overlooked? Many Kiwis will be familiar with White Island but, to the majority of Australians, New Zealand's only active marine volcano remains largely unknown. A visit to White Island can also entail a reasonable amount of time and, particularly if travelling by helicopter, expense.

We love it because... it's one of the most surreal, apocalyptic places anywhere in Australasia, acquiring its anglicised name from Captain Cook who noted its tendency to be enveloped in white steam. Since 1826 there have been almost three dozen eruptions on White Island (believed to be as old as 200,000 years), with the last being in 2000, blanketing the island in mud and creating a new crater.

Tours by Rotorua's Helipro (helipro.co.nz) consist of an action-packed three-and-a-half hours, straight out across the Bay of Plenty with the aircraft circling the island before landing on its stark, lunar-like surface. On certain days gas masks must be worn, with hard-hats compulsory. As you step from the helicopter you're confronted by a strange world, tinged sulphur yellow and full of steaming fumeroles and boiling mud. The helicopter then heads back out across the Bay of Plenty for a summit landing on the dormant Mount Tarawera, on the mainland, the scene of an epic 1886 eruption that claimed 153 lives.

How to get there White Island can be accessed by boat as well as helicopter, with fixed-wing flyovers also available. Rotorua, itself renowned for its geothermal activity, is surprisingly easily reached from Australia's eastern seaboard, and within New Zealand itself, with frequent half-hour connecting flights with Air New Zealand from Auckland.

Where to stay, Rotorua has a wealth of accommodation, including the luxurious lodge and estate, Treetops, (+64 7 333 2066; treetops.co.nz; doubles from $405 per person) and the more affordable Accolades Boutique Hotel (31 Flemington Place, Brunswick, Rotorua; +64 7 345 5033; accolades-boutique-hotel.co.nz; doubles from $327).

Don't miss The eerie remnants of a failed sulphur mining operation, which ended in the 1930s, including buildings and machinery corroded by the island's sulphuric gases.

The details, Helipro operates tours of White Island. Tours cost about $732 per person. White Island Tours (+64 7 308 9588; http://www.travelandleisure.com.au/redirect/default.aspx?url=http://www.whiteisland.co.nz) operate boat trips from Whakatane Wharf on the Bay of Plenty. Tours, which generally take about six hours return, cost $145 per person. – Anthony Dennis


4. DOUBTFUL SOUND, FIORDLAND, NEW ZEALAND

What is it? Doubtful Sound, the deepest of New Zealand's fiords, is a breathtaking watery wilderness, aptly dubbed the "Sound of Silence". Extending over 40 kilometres inland from the Tasman Sea, it consists of towering peaks with near vertical sides.

Why is it overlooked? The majority of visitors to this part of New Zealand opt for the smaller Milford Sound, which is widely promoted, easier to access and with established infrastructure. But canny Kiwis will tell you that Doubtful Sound – three times longer than Milford – is more serene and spectacular.

We love it because... part of the adventure lies in the reaching of Doubtful Sound: first you must take a boat trip across scenic Lake Manapouri and then a road trip over the 670-metre-high Wilmot Pass and down into Deep Cove. This is Fiordland National Park, New Zealand's largest and part of the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Area.

Chris Lemin, the owner of Deep Cove Charters (+64 3 249 6828; doubtful-sound.com) is a knowledgeable, knockabout skipper and guide who recently acquired a luxurious new vessel, Seafinn. During the cruise we encountered not just pods of bottlenose dolphins and fur seals on the rocks near the entrance to Doubtful Sound, but also red deer, through binoculars, on the rocky, precipitous sides of the peaks.

How to get there, Manapouri, 170 kilometres from Queenstown and close to the township of Te Anau, is the starting point of the two-stage, two-hour or so, journey that needs to be undertaken in order to reach Doubtful Sound. From Manapouri you take a boat across the lake and then a coach or van across Wilmot Pass.

Where to stay, It takes a few hours to reach Doubtful Sound from Manapouri, so an overnight cruise makes practical sense, aside, of course, from the fact that it's a such rewarding experience.

Before and after your visit there is plenty of affordable accommodation in Manapouri and Te Anau (fiordland.org.nz). One luxury option is Fiordland Lodge (472 Te Anau Milford Highway; +64 3 249 7832; fiordlandlodge.co.nz; doubles start from about $500).

Don't miss Waking up at dawn, or soon thereafter, on your overnight cruise boat located in the embrace of one of the sheltered arms of Doubtful Sound with scarcely another craft in sight.

The details, Deep Cove Charters is a small, family-run operator for between two and 12 passengers aboard the new boat, Seafinn. Overnight cruises operate between October and March with prices from $336 per person, including lunch, dinner and breakfast. The far larger, somewhat less personalised, though recommended Real Journeys (+64 3 249 7416; realjourneys.co.nz), operates day and overnight cruises aboard the Fiordland Navigator. Overnight cruise prices start from $362 per person. – ad


5. LITCHFIELD NATIONAL PARK, NORTHERN TERRITORY

What is it? Covering 1500 square kilometres, Litchfield National Park is the ancestral home of the Koongurrukun, Marranunggu, Werat and Warray Aboriginal people who believe that spirits shaped the park. If they did, they certainly had an eye for dramatic scenery.

The national park is home to gargantuan magnetic termite hills, tranquil lagoon pools with skyscraper-high waterfalls and four-wheel-drive tracks challenging enough to keep your teeth chattering.

Why is it overlooked? Litchfield has a far flashier, far better known neighbour in Kakadu National Park, yet many locals agree that the two share much of the same classic Top End terrain.

We love it because... it's Kakadu without the crowds, and because of its remote beauty. Swim in the Buley waterhole (croc-free in the dry season), explore the fascinating termite mounds or bathe in Wangi Falls to the sound of crashing water. For campers, there is the oft-overlooked Walker Creek area where a handful of raised wooden campsites are set next to a clear-water stream. There is also a peaceful walk here where visitors can wander for hours with just a few 'roos for company.

The Walker Creek track follows the stream, moves through some marshland where you walk on duckboards and culminates in a ridge with a commanding view. For the outdoors types the more challenging Tabletop Track offers 39 kilometres of some of the park's most interesting terrain.

How to get there, Fly into Darwin and hire a vehicle. You will need a 4WD if you plan to visit the Lost City. Contact the Parks and Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory (08 8976 0282; nt.gov.au) to check conditions. It takes just over an hour to get to Litchfield and you can fit in a walk, a swim and the Lost City in a day trip.

Where to stay, Campsites are peppered throughout the park but for day-trippers, Darwin is your best base. Try SkyCity (Gilruth Avenue, Mindil Beach; 08 8943 8888; skycitydarwin.com.au; doubles from $220), which is close to the city and next to the Mindil Beach markets.

Don't miss The Lost City – a tumble-down collection of wind-blasted sandstone monoliths that look eerily like a metropolis in decay. One huge formation offers a Hellboy moment as it resembles a giant rocky figure striding along. It is also eerily silent here save for the rustling of leaves and the buzzing of flies.

The details Qantas, Virgin Blue and JetStar fly to Darwin. Hire a 4WD through Budget (budget.com.au), Europcar (europcar.com.au) or Hertz (hertz.com.au) at Darwin airport. There is a detailed fact sheet on Litchfield and other Northern Territory parks at nt.gov.au. – Paul Chai


6. GawlerRanges, South Australia

If it weren't for the heat and the red dirt surrounds, the glistening white salt pan that forms Lake Gairdner may deceive visitors into thinking they are looking at a piece of Antarctica. At 430km from Adelaide, the Eyre Peninsula's Gawler Ranges also house the impressive ochre-red "organ pipe" rock columns. gawlerrangessafaris.com


7. Baird Bay, SA

Sea lions' curious natures are a hit in Baird Bay, 745km west of Adelaide, where swimming with the animals is available for visitors. The experience of frolicking with sea lions, and often dolphins, is even better given the animals simply turn up every day by choice. bairdbay.com
8. Walls of Jerusalem National Park, Tasmania Highlights, such as King David's peak, can only be reached on foot. Novices should consider a group trip, as this is experienced hikers' terrain. tasmanianexpeditions.com.au


9. The Tarkine, Tasmania

Unknown to many Australians, the largest temperate rainforest in the Southern Hemisphere lies in their backyard. With a wealth of Aboriginal cultural sites, a wild coastline, and a habitat harbouring 50 threatened species, it's easy to see why the Tarkine may be Tassie's best-kept secret. tarkinetrails.com.au


10. Little Desert National Park, Victoria

A desert in name only, many areas receive more than 600mm of rain a year. Excellent tracks make the 375km drive from Melbourne worthwhile. parkweb.vic.gov.au


11. Curio Bay, New Zealand

Near New Zealand's southernmost tip lies a chance to step back to the Jurassic age. Just 88km from Invercargill, Curio Bay houses one of the world's finest fossil forests. Formed 170 million years ago when ancient volcanoes flooded the forest floor with debris, the trees look like wood, yet feel just like stone. curiobay.org


12. Lake Waikaremoana, New Zealand

Hikers will love the great walk through the North Island's largest untouched native forest. Leaving Rotorua behind, groups set off for four days passing lakes, bluffs and spectacular wilderness. walkinglegends.com


13. Poruma Island, Queensland

Tucked away in the Torres Strait archipelago, visitors to Poruma may come for the fishing but they stay for much more. The island's 180 residents welcome guests with traditional cooking, arts and crafts. poruma.com


14. Adels Grove, QLD

The arid landscape west of Mount Isa makes the existence of the oasis that is Adels Grove even more remarkable. Those driving three hours towards the NT/QLD border will find a gorgeous gorge perfect for canoeing, swimming, fishing and birdwatching. http://www.travelandleisure.com.au/redirect/default.aspx?url=http://www.adelsgrove.com.au

15. Capertee Valley, NSW

Capertee Valley is the second largest enclosed valley in the world (after the Grand Canyon), but tends to get overlooked for the Blue Mountains. Although mainly 4WD access, Gardens of Stone National Park's rock formations and tranquility impress those who make the trip from Lithgow. environment.nsw.gov.au


16. Oxley Wild Rivers National Parks, NSW

This spectacular gorge country is even more impressive by helicopter, with the Flight of the Six Gorges a favourite. Taking in NSW's highest waterfalls, found at Wollomombi Gorge, an hour-long aerial tour presents the national park's rugged landscape at its most dramatic. fleethelicopters.com.au


17. White Cliffs, NSW

Coober Pedy is well-known for its underground living, but NSW has its own version. Most of White Cliffs' 225 residents live beneath the red earth. Visitors can try it for themselves at one of the town's hotels and B&Bs. visitnsw.com


18. Yankee Hat, Namadgi National Park, Australian Capital Territory

For visitors to Canberra, ancient rock art lies only an hour's drive and a leisurely 3km stroll away. Deep in Namadgi National Park, Yankee Hat boasts two rock shelters, both with painted art. australianalps.deh.gov.au


19. Cape Range National Park, Western Australia

Whale sharks, manta rays and humpback whales make the Ningaloo barrier reef their home. On land the Cape Range National Park protects limestone ranges, breathtaking canyons and more than 700 caves. http://www.travelandleisure.com.au/redirect/default.aspx?url=http://www.exmouthwa.com.au


20. Cape Leveque, WA

White sands and red earth make the Dampier Peninsula's Cape Leveque a place to remember. Four-wheel-drives are strongly recommended, as is a stay at Kooljaman, a luxury campsite owned by the local indigenous communities. kooljaman.com.au


21. Cobourg Peninsula, Northern Territory

The final destination is the pristine beaches, sparkling waters, and abundant sea life of the Peninsula's Garig Gunak Barlu National Park, but the journey through Kakadu is inspiring. travelnt.com – Sue White

The List | 25 Affordable Beach Resorts Around the World

Affordable Beach Resorts

There's nothing like a hotel by the sea – especially when it costs less than $300 a night. T+L sent correspondents around the globe, from the tiny undiscovered island of Holbox, on Mexico's Caribbean coast, to the shores of New Zealand's South Island. What we found: 25 perfect escapes.



BROOME, WA - $230

The endless turquoise strip of Broome's Cable Beach is the raison d'etre for The Pearle (14 Millington Road, Broome, WA; 08 9194 0900; thepearle.com.au) but, as with most places here, it isn't on the beachfront. Fortunately there are rewards for staying put. Many of the apartments have private lap pools, and the resort pool is a classy blue oblong overlooked by the excellent Cafe at The Pearle. The biggest apartments are heralded by impressive, oversized recycled teak doors, behind which the first "room" is outdoors, complete with barbecue, garden and decking. Stone and stainless steel sets the tone indoors. It's roomy, low key and there's all the mod cons to go with the king bed and soaker shower head. Or just switch off and open the louvres, the better to smell the sea air.

WHAT TO DO: Walk to beautiful Cable Beach. You'll work up a thirst, but the astonishing king tides and sunsets with camel train silhouettes are worth it.



MARGARET RIVER, WA - $220

It's not as cheap and cheerful as the caravan park it replaced, but Smiths Beach Resort (Lot 2, Smiths Beach Road, Yallingup, WA; 08 9750 1200; smithsbeachresort.com.au) has kept a "beach shack" feel. If you baulk at the eight-berth beach houses' lofty tariff, rest easy – you can also access the beach, pool and Bouzy champagne bar from a two-bedroom self-contained pod. There's less space to flick towels and no ocean views, but the elegant styling is intact.

WHAT TO DO: Get picnic supplies from the in-house gourmet store and bottle shop en route to the beach or forest. The Cape to Cape walk trail is right at your doorstep.



MERIMBULA, NSW - $163

Coast Resort's (1 Elizabeth Street, Merimbula, NSW; 02 6495 4930; coastresort.com.au) white cubes designed by Monckton Fyfe form an eye-catching bridge between the sapphire waters of the beach and the serene gloss of the lake in the NSW South Coast town of Merimbula. The 4.5-star development's two- and three-bedroom apartments and penthouse suites are a standout from the town's otherwise dated accommodation options. Smeg appliances, outdoor entertaining areas and crisp linen complement stunning water views from the floor-to-ceiling windows (but note: the ocean views are reduced to glimpses on the ground floor). The hoards of seachangers who have transformed towns all along the coast – drawing artisan bakeries, delis and boutiques to their newfound homes – are yet to influence this beautiful spot 471 kilometres from Sydney. So expect a holiday where pleasure will be found in the simplicity of catching a wave, exploring national parks or tracking the lake's edge via a boardwalk in the still of the early morning.

WHAT TO DO: Feast on oysters every which-way on the relaxed deck of the on-site restaurant at Wheelers oyster farm or grab a dozen from its adjoining shop for your own private party.



MOLLYMOOK, NSW - $230

Bannisters Point Lodge (191 Mitchell Parade, Molly-mook, NSW; 02 4455 3044; www.bannisterspointlodge.com.au) is propped on a South Coast headland in a town that attracts both surfers and migrating whales. The past four years have seen the property updated from a 1970s motel – it now offers its guests an infinity pool, an outdoor cocktail lounge and a spa that specialises in hot-rock therapies. The 31 rooms are done up in rattan furnishings; balconies overlook eucalyptus trees and the ocean. Just a five-minute stroll down the hill is the white sand of Mollymook Beach. For the best views at the hotel, head to the private outdoor spa on a deck above the clifftop.

WHAT TO DO: Weekend markets in Milton, four kilometres north, feature antiques and crafts.



KILLCARE, NSW - $250

Less than 90 minutes north of Sydney, the tranquil villages of Hardy's Bay and Pretty Beach remain largely unscathed by modernisation. While covetable private weekenders abound in this neck of the NSW Central Coast, stylish accommodation has always been scarce. Bells at Killcare (107 The Scenic Road, Killcare, NSW; 02 4360 2411; killcarebells.com.au), a boutique resort at Killcare Heights, is changing that.

Major refurbishment to the dated, but beautifully situated, Bells resort has seen the addition of a spectacular restaurant show-casing the skills of executive chef Stefano Manfredi, who blends northern Italian heritage with a contemporary Australian approach. Breezy, beachy, blue and white decor extends from the main building through to supremely comfortable self-contained cottages peppered around the leafy grounds.

While weekend tariffs are a little expensive, midweek deals – particularly dinner, bed and breakfast packages – offer great value. After indulging in stracci pasta with rabbit ragu, stuffed calamari and a wickedly rich Amedei chocolate truffle ball, you'll be glad you only have to walk a few paces to your room.

WHAT TO DO: Explore Bouddi National Park, just across the road from Bells. Reception has a brochure detailing 17 routes, including a five-kilometre circuit down to Maitland Bay, named after an 1898 shipwreck that claimed 24 lives. Other walks continue along the coastline past small, secluded beaches amid eucalypts, angophoras and burrawangs. Or hire a dinghy from Hardy's Bay for waterborne exploration.



MISSION BEACH, QUEENSLAND - $240

Unspoiled white beaches, shimmering aqua waters and towering rainforest have long drawn peace-seekers to idyllic Mission Beach on Queensland's far north coast. Fortunately, empathy with its unique charms has seen development occur at a protective pace (after all, there are endangered cassowaries to look after). In keeping with that spirit, the arrival of 4.5-star Elandra Resort (Explorer Drive, Mission Beach, Queensland; 1800 079 090 Australia or 07 4068 8154 New Zealand; elandraresorts.com) at isolated South Mission Beach has involved stylishly transforming an existing resort. Its 55 rooms and suites nestle unobtrusively into the landscape. The public areas are centred around a curvaceous pool, offering mesmerising views across to Dunk Island, just four kilometres offshore. Swish white decor coupled with a stunning mix of artefacts from Indonesia, Africa and India features in both the chic cocktail and restaurant areas as well as guestrooms (think pressed metal bedside tables, chandeliers adorned with antlers, and rustic wooden doors). Food follows a similarly global path with Middle Eastern flavours (zaatar, dukkah) alongside fresh seafood and the locally inspired sugar cane and crocodile koftas. Thumbs up for the in-room "treasure chest" which trumps the usual minibar, offering everything from the practical (sunscreen kits and anti-bug balm) to the indulgent (choc-coated berries and wildberry and nougat slice).

WHAT TO DO: Tired of lazing on oversized sunlounges? Charter a boat (tinny, kayak or catamaran) at South Mission Beach, or snorkel the outer reef.



AWAROA BAY, NEW ZEALAND - $208

When he created the isolated Awaroa Lodge (Awaroa Bay; +64 3 528 8758; awaroalodge.co.nz), leading Kiwi architect Ian Athfield was inspired by the classic New Zealand bach (weekend cottage). Set deep within the Abel Tasman National Park, the 26-room ecolodge is in harmony with the outdoors: earth-toned interiors, recycled-driftwood bannisters, balconies overlooking wetlands that teem with native birds (including rare white herons). The golden, iron-ore-laced sands of Awaroa Bay are a two-minute walk through the bush. To get to the hotel, you can take a plane, helicopter or boat, but the least expensive way is via a water taxi from the Abel Tasman National Park entrance at Marahau (aquataxi.co.nz; one-way fare $33).

WHAT TO DO: The 51-kilometre Abel Tasman Coastal Track, which runs past the lodge, makes for a great hike.



CHA-AM, THAILAND - $205

A formidable marble staircase framed by a Jenga-like entry in naturally aged wood leaves you in no doubt about the intentions at Alila Cha-Am (115 Moo 7, Tambol Bangkao, Amphur Cha-Am, Petchaburi; +66 32 709 555; alilahotels.com/chaam). Sophisticated, thoughtful design underpins the resort, which is two-and-a-half hours by road from Bangkok and 26 kilometres from its busy neighbour, Hua Hin Beach. A focus on privacy sees charming, understated touches: garden hideaways, couples' cabanas and reflection pools. Inside the 79 rooms, a Thai touch infiltrates furnishings and fabrics, and a capacious rain shower gives a euphoric edge to bathroom time. Cool daytime hangout The Red becomes yet cooler after dark. You can even get an evening spa treatment after a hard day's luxury at the adjoining Chill Pool. Beyond the resort, the crisp white beach – Thailand's longest – has a proliferation of seafood eateries. Or stay cosseted in Clouds Loft, Alila's fine diner.

WHAT TO DO: If you tire of the on-site splendour, watersports and cycling are on offer, or visit the nearby summer palace of King Rama VI.



KUI BURI, THAILAND - $100

An hour's drive south of royal resort town Hua Hin on the Gulf of Thailand is X2 Kui Buri (52 Moo 13, Ao Noi sub-district, Muang District, Prachuap Khiri Khan; +66 32 601 412; x2resorts.com), the latest in a string of boutique resorts to occupy this up-and-coming coastline. Its remoteness is alluring – surrounding fishing villages and national parks offer a glimpse into rural Thailand without having to rough it. Thai architect Duangrit Bunnag teamed local wood with stone to create 24 villas, scattered among huge old tamarind trees that provide respite from the midday heat. Rooms are dramatic, with granite walls and ceiling-to-floor glass doors opening onto courtyards, 19 with plunge pools (sadly not private enough to skinny-dip). Inside, rooms are dressed with plantation timbers, Thai cotton and stools fashioned from tree trunks. Book a beach-facing room to wake to the surf. An in-house spa offers treatments with freshly harvested ingredients – coconut body scrubs and seaweed masks.

WHAT TO DO: Explore Kui Buri and Sam Roy Rod National Parks – the latter means "300 hilltops". Spot wild elephants, gibbons, tapirs and migratory birds. Or visit the granite Huay Dong Ma Fai waterfall and its swimming hole. The resort will pack you a picnic lunch.



PHANG NGA, THAILAND - $190

The Aleenta (33 Moo 5 Khokkloy, Takuathung; 1800 251 958 Australia or 0800 441 098 New Zealand; aleenta.com) is a cluster of sugar-cube rooms tumbling down to an expanse of golden sand in Phang Nga, the undeveloped coastline north of Phuket Island. The second hotel by Thai Anchalika Kijkanakorn (her first is in Pranburi, south of Bangkok) mixes sleek local design with superb views over the azure Andaman Sea. Spare, without being minimal, the rooms have polished concrete floors, Jacuzzis and access to a pool – shared by the duplex suites (beachfront villas have their own). Book room 102 for uninterrupted views of the beach.

The Chef's Table (dinner for two, without wine, $180), a changing-daily five-course degustation menu starting with a glass of Champagne and ending with the perfect cheesecake. If the food doesn't wow you, the artwork will – a rotating collection by gallery Soul of Asia, with works by Asian artists like Zhang Xiao-gang. Work it all off the next day with a complimentary exercise class: yoga, Thai boxing or beach walking.

WHAT TO DO: Venture into Phuket Town's charming old quarter, a rickety collection of colonial mansions and Sino-Portuguese shop houses built during the island's halcyon days as a tin-mining town. Stop in at meticulously restored China Inn Café (20 Thalang Road; +66 76 356 239) for Peranakan cuisine and regional collectibles.



GOA, INDIA - $189

In 2003, Mumbai fashion photographer Denzil Sequeira opened up his ancestral compound, Elsewhere (Goa; +91 932 602 0701; aseascape.com; minimum one-week stay), to paying guests. Four colonial beach houses and three candy-coloured tents sit at the water's edge; for the most affordable option, book the latter, outfitted with a muslin-draped four-poster bed, modern bathroom, private lanai (porch) and your own wooden pier. The hotel is set in a forest of coconut trees on a hidden spit sandwiched between the Arabian Sea and a saltwater creek, near the former Portuguese port of Goa.

WHAT TO DO: Ask manager Vinod Pednekar to arrange an afternoon dolphin cruise with local fishermen, or check out the innumerable starfish that wash up on nearby Mandrem Beach.



THOM KHAN KEP, CAMBODIA - $185

A former resort town for socialites and dignitaries who built opulent holiday villas here, Kep's serenity was wrecked when it was sacked by the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s. Decades of fighting left the genteel seaside village a ghost town, the burnt-out ruins of art deco mansions reclaimed by the jungle. These days Kep is reinventing itself as Cambodia's new Riviera, a gentler escape from the flashy casinos in nearby Sihanoukville. The trend got a boost with the opening of Knai Bang Chatt (Phum Thmey Sangkat Prey, Thom Khan Kep, Kep City; +85 5 1287 9486; knaibangchatt.com), three brightly coloured '50s and '60s villas restored by Axel Vervoordt, son of legendary Belgian interior designer Boris. Highlighting the jazzy concrete facades, Vervoordt kept interiors simple with Cambodian antiques and blue and white linen against rich local timbers. The property originally opened as an all-inclusive villa but was recently transformed into an 11-room hotel with a waterfront restaurant. The rocky beach isn't suitable for swimming – cool off in the pool instead, or have a massage under the shade of a four-poster sala. Next door, a blue fisherman's hut has been converted into a boat club and bar. Steal a table on the deck for a legendary sunset.

WHAT TO DO: Take a boat to Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island) where you can snorkel in clear water or snack on fresh-caught calamari and crab – a bargain for $5 a plate. Go while you have it to yourself; Rabbit Island, and scores of others in this Cambodian archipelago, is tagged for mass tourism development.



PHU QUOC, VIETNAM - $145

The palm-fringed isle of Phu Quoc is one of Asia's most buzzed-about destinations, and La Veranda Resort & Spa (Tran Hung Dao Street, Duong Dong Beach; +84 77 398 2988; laverandaresort.com) is one reason why. The poshest of Phu Quoc's dozen hotels and guesthouses, this intimate 43-room resort sports yellow exteriors, whitewashed louvres and tropical gardens, recalling a colonial plantation. Deluxe villas are the best choice for sea-facing porches and spacious bathrooms. There's a good restaurant, lively bar and modest spa, but the real draw is the location: a 19-kilometre stretch of soft sand. Swim out to the pontoon and doze to gentle afternoon swells, or indulge in a $5 surfside massage. Next door, the Palm Tree restaurant (Bai Truong; no phone; dinner for two $16) serves grilled seafood from dawn to late. But better go soon as an impending development boom will soon bring mega-resorts and cruise ships to this impossibly quiet island.

WHAT TO DO: The concierge can arrange snorkelling or diving in the An Thoi archipelago, as well as nighttime squid-fishing trips.



CANDIDASA, BALI - $180

Health and nature buffs flock to the rugged, volcanic-sand shore of Alila Manggis (Desa Buitan, Manggis Karangasem, Candidasa; +62 3 634 1011; alilahotels.com), an hour east of touristy Kuta's nightclubs and adjacent to Mount Agung, an active volcano considered Bali's most sacred peak. All 56 rooms face the Bali Sea and overlook a lush central garden with coconut trees and frangipani – the setting for the resort's free daily yoga sessions (all levels welcome). The rooms are set in two-storey thatched houses that surround a palm-fringed pool.

WHAT TO DO: Dive at the Blue Lagoon, a reef just 15 minutes away. You'll come face-to-face with scorpion fish, turtles and white-tip sharks. More adventurous types can trek up Mount Agung – a four-hour climb.



CALIFORNIA, USA - $140

The floral prints and canopy beds at the Sea View Inn (Camino Real, Carmel; +1 831 624 8778; seaviewinncarmel.com) are a little frilly, but the draw here is the hospitality: fireside breakfasts and tea in the garden. The eight-room Victorian bungalow lives up to its name; it's only steps from a broad beach on the Monterey Peninsula. Try to book Room 7 as it has the largest windows and lovely garden views.

WHAT TO DO: Go on an art buying (or just looking) spree in town – Carmel has more than 100 galleries within the 2.6-square-kilometre centre.



HAWAII, USA - $186

Tucked among the pricey resorts of Hawaii's southern Kohala Coast is one of the Big Island's best-kept secrets: a tiny village with access to prime snorkelling and surfing beaches. The Puako Bed & Breakfast (25 Puako Beach Drive, Big Island; +1 808 882 1331; bigisland-bedbreakfast.com) is as low-key as its location; host and hula performer-instructor Punahele Andrade has outfitted the four guestrooms with tropical furniture and bright Hawaiian quilts. After a breakfast of Belgian waffles, Hawaiian sweetbread and Kona coffee, the rugged black-lava and white-coral beach beckons. For pristine, sandier stretches, head to Beach 69, in the Hapuna Beach State Park.

WHAT TO DO: Visit the ancient Petroglyphs at Puako. Take a horseback tour of the 60,700-hectare Parker Ranch in Waimea, 32 kilometres away. This stunning property is a working ranch with historic homesteads, manicured gardens, cattle country and elevated ocean vistas.



HOLBOX ISLAND, MEXICO - $190

Holbox (pronounced "Ole-bosh") is a tiny spit off the Yucatán Peninsula. At the chic 16-room CasaSandra Hotel (Calle Igualdad; +52 984 875 2171; casasandra.com), Cuban-born owner and artist Sandra Pérez wanted the property to feel more like a residence. So she spread CasaSandra out over five buildings and filled each of the spaces with one-of-a-kind regional pieces: rough-cut antique wooden tables from Guadalajara, rattan furniture, hand-woven linens and bath products. Outside, palapas (open-sided beach huts with palm-thatched roofs) dot the sand, and the azure water's edge is 50 uninterrupted steps away. The hotel arranges fishing excursions with CasaSandra's chef, Félix Diaz, who will prepare your catch for dinner.

WHAT TO DO: From June to August, Holbox is one of the few places in the world where you can swim alongside harmless whale sharks – the largest known fish in the world. Holbox Tours & Travel (+52 984 875 2173; holboxwhalesharktours.com; $90) runs six-hour tours that guarantee time in the water with these gentle giants.



CONCARNEAU, FRANCE - $165

Near the fortified port town of Concarneau, Les Sables Blancs (45 Rue des Sables Blancs; +33 2 98 50 10 12; hotel-les-sables-blancs.com) presides over an unspoiled strip of sand. The hotel opened about a year ago, and has a mod, minimalist look, with bright orange chairs on a vast lantern-lit bar terrace where guests gather at night. Most of the 20 rooms have sea views from the bed and sliding doors onto private balconies. Le Nautile, the on-site restaurant, is known for creative seafood dishes like squid sautéed with bacon and cocoa beans.

WHAT TO DO: On a clear day you can see Les Glénans, an uninhabited archipelago called "the Tahiti of Brittany". The hotel arranges day trips by boat to its largest island, which has a dive school and pristine beaches.



SAN SEBASTIAN, SPAIN - $210

The 65-room Hotel Codina (21 Avda. Zumalacárregui, San Sebastián; +34 94 321 2200; hotelcodina.es) was revamped in July 2006 from an outdated hotel to a stylish business-meets-beach haven. Rooms have free wi-fi (a rarity in Spain), sleek wooden furniture and oversized windows. The hotel is only a few metres from the half-moon cove of Ondarreta Beach. For the best beach views, ask for a room with a patio on the north-facing corner of the seventh floor.

WHAT TO DO: Picnic in the royal gardens of Palacio de Miramar, Queen María Christina's old haunt, overlooking the ocean.



ISCHIA, ITALY - $210

On the volcanic island of Ischia – famous for hot springs and therapeutic mud – near Lacco Ameno, sits the Hotel della Baia (Lacco Ameno; +39 081 986 398; www.negombo.it), a chic 21-room inn. An outdoor bar is surrounded by bougainvillea and lime trees; first-floor rooms' garden terraces overlook San Montano Bay and a private beach. Negombo Park, located across the road, has 14 outdoor geothermal pools of varying sizes and temperatures, scattered over a rocky hillside.

WHAT TO DO: Visit the Museo Archeologico di Pithecusae in Lacco Ameno. The museum houses ancient artefacts, including the Coppa di Nestore (mentioned in Homer's Iliad), from the ancient Greek settlement of Pithecusae.



ATHENS, GREECE - $175

The seven-storey Poseidon Hotel (72 Possidonos Avenue, Athens; +30 210 987 2000; poseidonhotel.com.gr) rises above a winding stretch of coastline between Athens and Cape Sounio, home to the Temple of Poseidon. The 88 rooms are stylishly sparse: pale wood furniture, crisp white bed linen. Terraces along the eastern side of the hotel look across the road to hip Edem Beach, dotted with the resort's white umbrellas and lounge chairs. Sip retsina at the rooftop restaurant as the sun sets over the Saronic Gulf.

WHAT TO DO: The hotel is five minutes away from the Alimos and Trocadero marinas, where you can rent a boat to Aegina to see the ancient Aphaia Temple.



OLUDENIZ, TURKEY - $190

Built in the style of a seaman's manor, Oyster Residences (Ölüdeniz, +90 252 617 0765; oysterresidences.com) evokes the town's quaint traditional architecture with its stone walls and an olive tree-shaded courtyard. But the real treat is the attentive staff, known to leave flowers on your balcony. The hotel accesses a one-kilometre-plus expanse of ivory sand and a turquoise lagoon on a tiny inlet along a rugged stretch of the Turkish Riviera. Book rooms on the ground floor, which have garden terraces that open up to the pool and courtyard.

WHAT TO DO: Visit the town of Kayaköy, where hundreds of abandoned Greek-style houses are said to have inspired the novel Birds Without Wings, by Louis de Bernières, author of Captain Corelli's Mandolin.



KWAZULU-NATAL, SOUTH AFRICA - $295

Robinson Crusoe fantasies meet environmental sensitivity at South Africa's Thonga Beach Lodge (Mabibi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal; +27 35 474 1473; isibindiafrica.co.za). Inspired by traditional Thongan fishing villages, there's an understated luxury here. Think thatched roofs, wide decks, mosquito nets, candlelit beach dining and cocktails under the Mdoni trees. Accommodation is designed for minimal impact on the environment and maximum exploitation of views. Mud-stone-toned ensuite bedrooms look out over dune forest or Mabibi Bay.

The lodge is the only commercial venture in the World Heritage-listed iSimangaliso Wetland Park.

WHAT TO DO: Snorkel, dive, swim and bird watch. Or ogle giant leatherback and loggerhead turtles in nesting season (November to March).



DE KELDERS, SOUTH AFRICA - $120

It's all about whales in this hamlet 90 minutes up the coast from Cape Town. To offer guests the best vantage point, Whale Sanctuary Lodge (41–43 Cliff Street, De Kelders; +27 28 384 2806; whalesanctuarylodge.co.za) is set on a cliff above Walker Bay, where you can spot orcas, southern rights and humpbacks out at sea. A private balcony juts over the water in each of the six suites, which have marble floors and leather furnishings. The Orca suite is the biggest (65 square metres) and has the best views, with two entire walls made of glass. There is a slightly rocky beach below the lodge, but there are 24 kilometres of deserted golden sand just a five-minute drive away in the Walker Bay Nature Reserve.

WHAT TO DO: The hotel can arrange cage-diving with great white sharks, in the nearby town of Kleinbaai.



KORBA, TUNISIA - $79

Over the past decade, the owners of the 27-hectare Africa Jade (Avenue Habib Bourguiba, Korba; +216 72 384 633; africajade.com) – one of the world's first Club Meds – have turned it into a domed, columned palace ornamented with African art. All 260 rooms have oversized wicker furniture, mosaic-tiled baths, and private verandas overlooking the ocean. The property is set along a vast stretch of white, dune-rimmed beach on the Cap Bon peninsula. True to its Club Med roots, there are plenty of diversions, with four restaurants, as many tennis courts, an archery range, 1115-square-metre pool and new thalassotherapy spa.

WHAT TO DO: Ask the concierge to arrange a sunset camel ride along the beach or shop for ceramic and silk in the souks of Tunis, an hour's drive west.




Article curtesy Travel + Leisure Magazine Australia
Reports by Richard Alleman, Megan Anderson, Alysha Brown, Ada Calhoun, Gillian Cullinan, Jennifer Flowers, Ozgur Gezer, Kendall Hill, Tina Isaac, David A. Keeps, Peter Jon Lindberg, Christine Long, Shane Mitchell, Simon Thomsen, Leisa Tyler, Hannah Wallace, Sarah Wildman, Elizabeth Woodson.